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9 Apr 2013

Given the continuing tech issues, my plan is to post short little posts to catch everybody up to date, and to add a “progress” to show where I am and where I´ve been.


Still very little luck on the photo front, though I´ve now taken over 1200 photos. A couple of them are even good.




Originally published at Another Pilgrim on the Way

07 April 2013


Having been to Mass in Los Arcos, today a rather large group of us set out first thing in the morning. We walked 28 km.


From Los Arcos it was a delightfully easy 7 km to Sansol. Onward, we wlked over easy roads through olive groves and vinyards, culminating in a steep, undulating descent into our lunchtime village.


Mostly walked with Patrick from Florida. He only has two weeks in Spain this year, but he plans to come back each of the next two years to complete his Camino.


Our little group – little? as much as eight, I think – strung out across the long, hilly road to Viana, with Kristof, Allie, Patrick, and I pulling up the rear.


Kristof checked into the first albergue in Viana. With Allie fallen far behind, Patrick and I entered central Viana just as the enormous Iglesia de Santa Maria had thrown open its doors to release hundreds of Mass-goers into the square.


After waiting for the crowd to thin, I prepared to enter the church, which is the final resting place of Cesare Borgia.


Instead, an angry looking gentleman shouted something at me and wagged his finger at me. As I stood there, astonished, he slammed the great door in my face.


I can´t help contrasting this with another walk, with Francine in Tacoma on the Feast of the Assumption, 2004. Had the church doors been slammed on my face then, my history would have been very different indeed!


We found the rest of our group ensconced in the square, eating a picnic lunch. We joined them and pressed on to Logrono.


We have now left the charming Kingdom of Navarre and entered Spain´s premiere wine region, La Rioja.


At least 24 people gathered for dinner for the birthday of one of our pilgrims, Carlos from Columbia. Riotous good fun, with raucous singing from the Irish contingent, and one Bavarian primary school teacher.


Met many, many more pilgrims, too numerous to count.




Originally published at Another Pilgrim on the Way

08 April 2013


Short, difficult day today. The roads were fairly easy, but all of us are feeling yesterday.


Logrono is a big city, and getting in and out of the cities is a lot of walking on concrete. No fun.


Cliff left first and was soon out of sight. Charlie is staying a couple of days in the city to rest up. Allie, Eamon, Patrick, Petra, Viola, and I set off for the long city slog.


We only got lost once. Well, maybe twice.


Urban slog gave way to urban parkland and preserve. The Camino ran along a frontage road for a long way, and this was hard walking.


The highlight of the day was undoubtable Navarette – funky bar for lunch, beautiful church, and an interview and photgraphs by a local reporter.


If anybody is looking for the lost treasure of the Incas, I´m reasonably certain it may be found in the three-story gold baroque altar of the Iglesia Parroquial de la Ascuncion de Maria.


We prayed there for some time, and I was reminded that it was the feast of the Assumption on which Francine and I walked into the Catholic Church.


Our albergue in Ventosa is by far the most tranquil, wonderful spot we´ve stayed so far, the San Saturno. A delightful walled garden, and conversations in English, German, and Spanish over beer from the vending machine.


The only sound is the fall of water on stone from the fountain in the corner of the garden.


It is all as it should be. It is good.


This is how God created the world, not for rush and panic and stress, but for work, for rest from work, for thanksgiving and worship. Not for conflict and avarice, but for simple joys.




Originally published at Another Pilgrim on the Way

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