Arcadia Est Imperare Orbi Universo

(from my journal)

Santiago de Compostela

02 May 2013

Praise God, at about 3pm we arrived in Santiago de Compostela. On the way into the city, we kept running into people we knew – people who had shared some portion of the walk with us – probably a dozen reunions before we even reached the Cathedral.

Entering the plaza in front of the Cathedral was an experience like no other. The emotions were overwhelming: gratitude, relief, wonder, the childlike excitement of Christmas morning all rolled into one.

I have a feeling that heaven is a lot like that: constantly meeting old friends in an overwhelming place of wonder and delight.

We visited the Cathedral, of course. The traditional entry of the pilgrim is through something called the Gate of Glory. Unfortunately, it was covered in scaffolds due to reconstruction work.

The central image of Christ, however, was visible.

We prayed. We clambered behind the high altar to hug the statue of the saint. Then we descended to the tomb and prayed before his remains.

I’m still overwhelmed by the whole thing.

In the evening, tapas!

All the photos from day 31!

There will be one more entry in this series, I think, and then we’re done.

(from my journal)

Sarria

27 April

The walls of the Monastery Albergue at Samos

Some highway walking, followed by a beautiful walk in the forests of Galicia. Lots of rain.

Who’s this shady character?

Samos

Wayside Shrine

Francine, having had very little sleep due to a drunken Englishman snoring and occasionally shouting in his sleep, dragged considerably. By the time we got to Sarria, she was done.

We had lunch and bid Eamon adieu as he set out for Portomarin.

Stairs up to the Old Town of Sarria

When we decided we were done for the day after only 11km

Mass in the evening.

Dinner with Mia, who had taken a rest day in Sarria, and the rest of the Irish crew, who had caught up this afternoon.

Internet? Francine perks right up!

Our first taste of pulpo. Yum!

We rented a room at the Café Escalinata at the top of the stairs. Started my third credencial.

Day 26: the photos.

(from my journal)

Royal Monastery of Samos

26 April 2013

We Happy Few: Leaving Fonfría (me, Iaian, Fraincine, Bob, Anja)

Francine and I had a shorter walk today to Samos through beautiful Galician misty farmland and woods with Anja.

During second breakfast, who should come ’round the bend but Eamon!

Lunched in Triacastela and the mist finally more or less lifted.

Arrived in Samos with Eamon and Francine and booked into the monastery albergue.

Galicia seems like home – almost a faerie-tale country – and the first view of Samos from the overlooking hill took my breath away.

Toured the monastery with Eamon and Radek.

Beautiful chanted Mass and Vespers later with the monks (or some of them – I’m not actually entirely clear on how many there are) was a moving and uplifting experience, even if I understood barely a word (Latin more than Spanish). My overwhelming feeling as we walked through the great cloister was that I was made for the monastery.

Dinner – caldo Gallega!

Even more photos!

(from my journal)

Fonfria

25 April 2013

First Breakfast in Vega

Today we traveled, on and off, with Ian, Anja, and a lovely Korean lady named Isabel (or, as I like to call her, Bob). The climb to O’Cebreiro was steep and rough, quite the toughest climb so far… but one.

Cows with Cowbells. Francine was so enchanted with the sound, that she recorded it.

Somewhere near Ruitelán

Bar in Las Herrerías – Second Breakfast

We lunched with Anja in O’Cebreiro, and also met Radek there. Radek is from Poland – an amazing and humble guy – who is shepherding two kids from Canada, David and Lana (who I sometimes call the Saskatchewan Kid and Canada Girl. It’s a superhero thing.)

We’ve seen them on and off since before León – possibly since before Logroño. A few nights ago in Molinesca, Radek helped me work out our remaining route. I hope to meet up with them again tomorrow in Samos.

The view from the top of the pass is amazing, and the village itself was the site of a Eucharistic miracle in the 14th century. In the 21st, however, at least today, it was overrun by two busloads of German tourists. We ate and stayed a bit to wait out the hottest part of the day, while a group of Germans at the bar sang songs in both German and Spanish.

Anja and Francine in O’Cebreiro

The View from O’Cebreiro

On into Galicia! Such a beautiful country. We thought we were done climbing, but a series of rises brought us into a thin pine forest, where Francine, Anja, and I made the determination to finish the day in Fonfria.

Alto de San Roque

Cows on the Road! Hospital de la Condesa

The Way followed a highway, usually right next to it as a gravel path. Just before Alto do Poio there was a entirely unexpected hill – easily the steepest part of the Camino so far. At one point, I was nearly on all fours. It was a kilometer long, and the town was at the top.

More importantly, a bar was at the top.

When we came into sight, the peregrinos sitting outside the bar erupted in applause. We had some tonic there, and pushed on over a relatively easy road to Fonfria.

At dinner, Ian and a young Japanese kid named Su took turns singing and playing guitar. The company was excellent, and the dinner fantastic. A great night of food, fellowship, and fun.

Albergue in Fonfria

Ian and Francine

Bob

Francine, Su, Anja

Ian

Anja

Su

Photos! All of them! Day 24!

(from my journal)

Cacabelos

23 April 2013

On paper, this should have been our easiest day. Unfortunately, it was 27° C.

We arrived in Ponferrada in good shape and only slightly behind schedule. But there was the Castle. We waited almost an hour for it to open at 11AM(ish), and we then spent over an hour exploring the structure and at the library display of medieval books and facsimiles.

The castle in Ponferrada – Castillo de los Templarios – is a Templar castle, eventually taken over by local gentry. It was originally built in the 12th Century, and expanded and modified over the next three centuries. Repairs and modernizations were carried out in the 19th and 20th Centuries.

It was a great deal of fun to explore, but it and a visit to the Basilica put us hopelessly behind schedule.

So we were walking in the heat of the day, and the heat was horrible. Francine proved quite susceptible to the temperature, and our pace, while never speedy, now became plagued with the need for constant breaks.

At one point in the village of Fuentas Nuevas, I became concerned that she might actually be suffering from heat prostration. We spent over 30 minutes in a bar while her temperature normalized. After that, it was an excruciatingly slow journey to Cacabelos, where we arrived at the albergue at nearly 7PM.

We showered and (for €6) gave them our laundry. At 8PM, there was a van pool to a restaurant for dinner. The food was terrible, easily the worst I’ve had in Spain. The first course was a tepid soup that was simply inedible, and the second was overcooked beef that was mostly fat and gristle. Apparently the hospitalero gets some sort of kickback for the arrangement.

About 10PM, I went in search of our laundry. It turns out the dryer is broken, and nobody bothered to tell us. Our clothes are damp, and all possibility of leaving early tomorrow to beat the heat is gone. The hospitalero merely shrugged, “is Spain”.

A terrible evening all around.

I despair now of meeting our schedule – we are only 193km from Santiago, and I now have no idea how to get there in time. We should have been at La Faba tomorrow night (the 24th), so as to crest O’Cebreiro on the 25th in the morning to reach Tricastela on that night. This is now impossible.

The best case now is to reach Ruitelán, and that’s only a vague hope. Trabadelo is more likely. Perhaps a bus from Villafranca to Trabadelo or Vega de Valcarce will put us back on schedule? I may just put Francine on a bus in O’Cebreiro to Triacastela to avoid the downhill trek. I just don’t know at this point what to do.

Oh, and tonight at dinner we met the Ugly American. His name is Rick (maybe), and he’s from LA.

The night manager put our clothes on a drying rack under a portable heater! Huzzah for Spanish ingenuity in adversity!

Santiago is with us tonight, as are Radek, Lana, and the Saskatchewan Kid.

Radek saves the day! We talk about geography and schedules over beer. He has convinced me that we can be in Santiago on the 2nd, just a day behind schedule.

Photos will have to wait. For some reason, I’m missing a week’s worth of photos on Flickr. Probably, “is Spain”.

EDITED TO ADD: SOME PHOTOS!

ALL the photos for day 22!

(from my journal)

Rabanal del Camino

21 April – Sunday!

Bishop’s Palace in Astorga, by Gaudi. The Bishop never moved in, and it’s a Museum now.

Cathedral in Astorga – Apparently Closed on Sunday Mornings.

What is this?

Francine’s second day, and the Benedictine connection continues. It was a rough day, and we only reached El Ganso – our intended lunch target – at 2PM.

Walking from Astorga to El Ganso

A Hobbit Door?

Memorial. We saw many, many of these on the Camino.

Broad path between road and horse path gave way to walking beside the highway.

The views were spectacular – the mountains got larger and larger as we approached. Francine had the same sorts of pains, adjustments, and stops I had in my own early going, and I did my best to help her and encourage her.

As we gained altitude, it was easy to run out of breath, and I had to make sure that I regulated my own pace, difficult for me in the best of times.

We arrived in Rabanal about 4PM, sore but triumphant. Francine is starting to build confidence and stamina, which she will need in the days ahead. Not sure how we will handle the descent form Cruz de Ferro, but I hope we can make it to Molinesca tomorrow. Will stop in Riego de Ambrós if required.

We’re staying at the fantastic albergue of the Confraternity of Saint James in the UK, with a Benedictine monastery (just three monks) next door.

Francine enters Rabanal

The view from our albergue

Washing Clothes in Rabanal, from top to bottom: Smith, Tara, Francine, Stella

Benedictine Monastery in Rabanal del Camino

We had hoped to find a Sunday Mass here, after not finding an early morning Mass in Astorga – despite the schedule posted by the diocese – and just missing the one in Santa Catalina de Somoza. We did stop in the church there with the intention (at least) to pray awhile and venerate the relics of Saint Blaise there, but after only a moment we were shooed out by an officious church lady.

In retrospect, I believe she was deliberately trying to insult us, but of course I was too oblivious at the time, which I’m sure frustrated her to no end.

Met so many people today!

As I said, we’d hoped to find a Mass at Rabanal, as we had been told of a 7PM Mass, but in the event it proved to be Vespers by the monks – chanted in Latin, with the reading done in Spanish, English, and German. The monks, at least two-thirds of them, are from Bavaria. One of the German monks (Brother Marcus perhaps?) stopped by the albergue about an hour before Vespers looking for readers. So of course, Francine volunteered me.

There were three of us there, given no instruction, but sitting in choir with the monks.

It felt eerily familiar, and it felt right, if that makes sense.

Vespers was beautiful, and it was followed by exposition of the Blessed Sacrament and Benediction. This, we had no fore-warning of, so there I was in the monks’ choir with two other pilgrims who had read the reading from Hebrews, each in their own language, none of us having any idea what to do.

We improvised by just standing amazed and singing what bits of O Salutaris Hostia we remembered, which as it turns out wasn’t much.

Even so, a sublime experience.

Afterwards, dinner with Smith and Tara, plus a new Irish friend, Mark Kilmartin. Then Compline. Now sleep.

All them thar photos – day 20.

(from my journal)

León

19 April

In León after a relatively easy 18km walk, made only slightly more difficult by the fact of walking on sidewalks for much of it.

This is a fantastic city! It’s probably my favourite so far – other than Pamplona of course. Narrow, crooked streets, bursting with life and commerce.

A Lion in León!

Plaza in front of the Benedictine Albergue (and Hotel)

The Cathedral is glorious. There’s an audio tour, of course, but unlike Burgos, they haven’t turned it into a museum. The liturgies are obviously still held in the Cathedral’s nave, with every portion fulfilling its intended function. Nor so large or grand as Burgos, it is nevertheless more harmonious and serene.

And the windows! Light pouring through jewels in harmony and balance. Just joyful.

Santa María de León Cathedral

Santa María de León Cathedral – Rose Window

Francine has arrived! Her first act on arriving in the city was to find two French pilgrims in need of assistance. We assisted them.

Checked into the hotel attached to the Benedictine convent.

Francine in León

Benedictine Convent in León: Medal of Saint Benedict

Benedictine Convent in León: Medal of Saint Benedict (the other side!)

Real beds!

Big farewell to my Camino family: drinks then dinner. Tomorrow, Francine and I take a bus about a day forward so her first day of the Camino is not walking through the city and suburbs of León.

The Big Goodbye in León

Eamon and I

All the photos for day 18.

(from my journal)

Bercianos del Real Camino

17 April

Francine is in flight! Meanwhile, today was another introspective Meseta day – bleak, virtually unchanging scenery pushing thoughts deep within with little distraction.

Entered the Province of León.

Just before arriving in the town of Sahagún, at a little place called Ermita de la Virgen del Puente, I crossed the halfway point of my Camino in terms of distance. There’s a monument there – supposedly exactly at the midway point between Roncesvalles and Santiago de Composetela – with statues of Bernardo de Sedirac (d. 1128?) who founded the local Cluniac abbey and became Primate of Spain, and King Alfonso VI “the Brave” (1047-1109) who founded the nearby city.

King Alfonso VI of León and Castile

Bernardo de Sedirac

Halfway!

Sahagún was larger than expected, and the ruins of the great Benedictine monastery of Abadia de San Benito el Real de Sahagún are impressive. Lunched in the city.

Abadia de San Benito el Real de Sahagún

One of the Photos that Every Peregrino Gets

And then there was the incident with the sheep on the bridge. Apparently they have right of way. It was like being subsumed in a tidal wave of wool.

Santiago in a Sea of Sheep

Eamon Plays it Cool.

Walked with Eamon and Santiago today. Tomorrow will be my last day with both of them.

Delightful albergue. Communal prayer, dinner preparation, and dinner. Caught up with Cliff again. Lots of brainwork today on a Sahûl board game.

[There followed in my journal some notes about a story/novella.]

Fun with a friendly goat wandering around the town and getting into the albergue. Great photos of a sheep flock. Spoke with their fascinating shepherd.

All the photos! More goat! Day 16!

(from my journal)

Carrión de los Condes

15 April

A record-breaking 34km day. The walk to Frómista along the Canal de Castilla was very pleasant. It was not yet hot – we left at 7:30 – and a cool breeze blew through the trees beside the canal as Eamon, Mia, and I walked in the morning light.

Lunch in Frómista, where I spent some time in the Romanesque masterpiece of the Iglesia de San Martín, built in 1035. Mia continued on without us.

Iglesia San Martín, Frómista.

The Lock on the Door.

From there, a straight-shot walk by the highway, which brought home the reality of the Meseta.

In Población de Campos, I saw a lamppost I had seen in my dreams, in Carcosa. I’d sketched it perhaps twenty years ago.

Carcosa bleeds into Población de Campos

At Población de Campos, we took a slightly longer alternative route, rather than continue next to the highway for another 9km. This route started out unpromisingly, but soon began running next to a tree-lined river, which was every bit as pleasant as our earlier canal walking.

Ermita de Nuestra Señora del Río near Villalcazár de Sirga

Eventually, the Way left the river to return to the highway, and the full strength of the afternoon sun bore down upon Eamon and I.

We each had a cola in Villalcazár de Sirga while we evaluated our determination to go on today. finally we decided that we’d rather do the long stretch after Carrión de los Condes in the morning.

The last 5.5km to Carrión was the now familiar dead straight shot along the highway, with oceans of grassy Meseta to each side. We soon separated, Eamon surging forward and me walking with a more deliberate pace. We walked alone, each of us enveloped in the Meseta and alone to struggle with our own thoughts.

Big news was the catastrophic failure of footwear. The heels in my shoes are deteriorating, and as a result I’d pounded both pairs of hiking socks to dust – heel holes in both right socks. Also have my first proper tiny little blisters, both on my right foot.

Both feet swollen and bruised for the first time in a week. Was able to purchase two pairs of hiking socks and compeed here in Carrión de los Condes.

Dinner with Eamon and Santiago. Briefly saw Cliff.

All the photos for day 14.

(from my journal)

Nájera

09 April

La Rioja: Somewhere West of Ventosa, Early Morning

(from my journal)

Mañeru

Easter Friday / Noon

Seven AM wake-up call and on the Road. Ali and Cliff remained in Puente la Reina. Ali is getting some help for an allergic reaction to her socks. Cliff’s blisters are getting worse, so he’s planning on resting a few days and taking a bus to Logroño.

Morning in Puente la Reina

(from my journal – the day by day account continues!)

Irotz

Easter Wednesday / 11AM

This morning about 8AM we left Kristof behind and set out for Pamplona! No coffee or breakfast until now.

A Farewell to Zubiri

Walking mostly with Eamon or by myself. Ali has lagged behind out of sight, and Cliff has pushed ahead, not wanting to stay still for long.

(from my journal)

Somewhere Over the Atlantic

Easter Monday

Less than an hour until we land at Madrid and I make it 6:50AM local time. Managed a few hours of sleep and prayed Lauds. Wide awake now and looking forward to another day of travelling.

It took all of 90 seconds to get through customs and passport control. My bus for Pamplona doesn’t leave for another three hours.

Spent some time working out how to text Francine on the burner phone. Finally managed to get it sent.