Arcadia Est Imperare Orbi Universo

(from my journal)

Ventosa

Annunciation of the Lord

Short, difficult day today. The roads were actually fairly easy, but all of us are still feeling yesterday.

Cliff left first, and he was soon out of sight. Charlie is taking a rest day or two. Ali, Eamon, Patrick, Petra, Viola, & I set off together. Breakfast in Logroño and then a long city slog. Ali stayed behind in the city after breakfast to find a bank, and she told us she would only go as far as Navarrete today.

A Hidden Jewel: the Church of Santiago in Logroño

Santiago Apóstol

Today is the feast of Saint James the Apostle, son of Zebedee and Salome of Bethsaida, brother of Saint John the Apostle and Evangelist.

One of the “Sons of Thunder” (Mark 3:17).

Santiago.

On this day last year, I wrote about what we know of Saint James from scripture and tradition.

That was before I had walked 500 miles to his sepulcher in Santiago de Compostela.

That was before I knelt before his mortal remains.

Sign above the entrance to the crypt at Santiago.

Here’s the thing, the tradition has it that while he was in Hispania, the apostle made only a handful of converts. He returned to Jerusalem about a decade after Christ’s Crucifixion, only to himself be martyred on the order of King Herod Agrippa I of Judea (Acts 12).

By any standard James was a failure as a preacher.

But look at what he’s done in the centuries since his death.

Santiago Peregrino

That’s just last year.

How many millions of pilgrims over the centuries have walked the Way?

Make no mistake about it, the Saint is watching over every one of those pilgrims every step of the way.

And while not every pilgrim walks the Way as a Conversatio Morum, in my experience most do in some form or another. The Way of Saint James forces us to “a continual change of heart, a daily reshaping of the mind and heart according to God’s plan for us”.

When faced with some difficulty or need, every Peregrino who I encountered took to heart some form of the phrase “the Camino provides”. This is, of course, only an inch away from Deus providebit – God provides.

James, through the Camino, is a much more effective evangelist now than in life.

It’s instructive, I think, to note that along the Camino, James is depicted in one of three ways: as Apostle, most popularly as Pilgrim (with shell, staff, and hat), and as Santiago Matamoros – Saint James the Moorslayer.

In these very PC times, that last title gives many pause.

Let me set the scene: Christian (Visigothic and Roman) Hispania had been occupied by the Moors for about a hundred years. In the south, much of the country was Islamic, but in the north Christianity remained firm. The Moslem armies could conquer the north with relative ease (and indeed, they did several times), but they could not hold it. The locals rebelled just as soon as they could and re-established their churches and monasteries.

Finally, some of the northern Christian landowners got their act together and started raising some proper armies. They formed principalities and tiny kingdoms: Asturias, Navarra, Aragon.

Santiago Matamoros

Legend has it that on or about 23 May 844, the army of King Ramiro of Asturias met a considerably larger (and better disciplined) army led by the Emir of Córdoba (or possibly his son; accounts vary).

The Christian army was going down to its inevitable defeat, when, according to the legend, Saint James appeared riding a white horse and bearing a white standard. He rallied the Christian forces and led them to their first major victory at the Battle of Clavijo.

Now, many historians will point out that the battle is not well documented. Some go so far as to say that it is definitively “a legendary battle that never took place“. Most think it’s a confused retelling of the second Battle of Albelda (AD 859), where the combined armies of King Ordoño I of Asturias and King García Íñiguez of Navarra defeated the forces of Musa ibn Musa ibn Qasi.

Regardless of what may have actually happened, the incident entered the emerging Spanish national conscience and proved a rallying cry for the forces of the reconquest.

Sightings of Saint James in this guise are documented throughout the medieval period and even later. Rather than leading an army, he usually defends a village from Moorish raiders, or carries a pilgrim through bandit-infested countryside.

Now, mind you, “Moorslayer” is probably not an appropriate term for our times, but the idea of defending the oppressed very much is. If this aspect of Saint James had first become popular in the twentieth century (rather than the tenth), he very well might have been called “Saintiago Superman”. He’s even got a cape.

So the three aspects of Saint James that you see depicted on the Camino – Apostle, Pilgrim, Moorslayer – are really just three aspects of what each Christian is called to: to preach the faith, to continually turn towards God, and to protect those in need.

Faith. Hope. Charity.

The Tomb of Saint James

On this day, Saint James Day, let us pray with the whole Church that we can learn from his example of teaching, prayer, and service in life, death, and beyond.

Almighty ever-living God,

who consecrated the first fruits of your Apostles

by the blood of Saint James,

grant, we pray,

that your Church may be strengthened

by his confession of faith

and constantly sustained by his protection.

Through our Lord Jesus Christ, your Son,

who lives and reigns with you

in the unity of the Holy Spirit,

one God, for ever and ever.

Amen.

Saint James, pray for us.

We’ve made excellent progress the past two days through the undulating farm and forest lands of Galicia. We’ve certainly had our share of weird weather en route, from sudden hailstorms to today’s gale-force winds, but overall it’s been sunny and cool.

In my experience so far, there are three basic kinds of people walking the Camino: pilgrims, tourists, and hikers.

Most people, of course, have all three tendencies at some point or another, but they tend to revert to type eventually. One hopes that all will become pilgrims in the end.

Early on in the Camino, pilgrims predominate, with hikers probably coming in second. Since Sarria, however, we’ve been overwhelmed by all three in (as far as I can tell) roughly equal numbers. It’s kind of a shock to the system.

I should explain about Sarria.

The Cathedral in Santiago only issues a Compostela certificate to those who have walked at least 100 km. Sarria is the town closest to the 100 km milestone, so the vast majority of those walking the Camino start there.

On an average day, you might see 40 to 50 pilgrims, more in the cities. In the last two days since Sarria, we’ve regularly seen groups of 40 pilgrims. For the first time, it’s crowded here. The albergues are full.

We’ve seen German walking clubs, Scottish tour groups, and American day-hikers. The entire tenor and tone of the Camino has changed.

They’re all fresh-faced and eager, with not a smudge on their new day packs and no mud on their shoes. They’re boisterous and they walk fast, carrying their poles rather than using them.

Some of the Germans even have pressed pants.

As I said, quite a shock to the system.

Meanwhile, my body broken by Navarre and Rioja and my mind broken by the Meseta, I am exquisitely conscious of my soul being built up in Galicia.

For one thing, churches are open. For some reason, in Castille y León, it was impossible to find an open church. Here, it’s very different.

For another thing, I’m seeing representations of the Blessed Sacrament everywhere – it’s depicted on the coat of arms of Galicia. Every place sign, every government or tourist office, every trash can, has it.

At first, it was difficult not to resent the people I’m meeting now, but this morning I realized it’s the parable of workers in the vineyard, and my attitude turned around immediately.

08 April 2013

Short, difficult day today. The roads were fairly easy, but all of us are feeling yesterday.

Logrono is a big city, and getting in and out of the cities is a lot of walking on concrete. No fun.

Cliff left first and was soon out of sight. Charlie is staying a couple of days in the city to rest up. Allie, Eamon, Patrick, Petra, Viola, and I set off for the long city slog.

We only got lost once. Well, maybe twice.

Urban slog gave way to urban parkland and preserve. The Camino ran along a frontage road for a long way, and this was hard walking.

The highlight of the day was undoubtable Navarette – funky bar for lunch, beautiful church, and an interview and photgraphs by a local reporter.

If anybody is looking for the lost treasure of the Incas, I´m reasonably certain it may be found in the three-story gold baroque altar of the Iglesia Parroquial de la Ascuncion de Maria.

We prayed there for some time, and I was reminded that it was the feast of the Assumption on which Francine and I walked into the Catholic Church.

Our albergue in Ventosa is by far the most tranquil, wonderful spot we´ve stayed so far, the San Saturno. A delightful walled garden, and conversations in English, German, and Spanish over beer from the vending machine.

The only sound is the fall of water on stone from the fountain in the corner of the garden.

It is all as it should be. It is good.

This is how God created the world, not for rush and panic and stress, but for work, for rest from work, for thanksgiving and worship. Not for conflict and avarice, but for simple joys.

At the highest point of the Camino in Spain, upon the plateau of Monte Irago, is a cross.

This cross, called Cruz de Ferro (literally, “iron cross”) is a tall oak post with a small iron cross attached to the top. All around the cross is a large pile of stones.

Pilgrims have been laying a stone at Cruz de Ferro for centuries.

I’m no different. I’m bringing a stone. I collected it during my inadvertent Camino day, back in August. On that day, my friend Paul and I sort of accidentally walked about 25 km.

Along the way, we passed near a number of tall, crumbly cliffs. On a whim, I grabbed a small stone from the base of one. I’m glad I did.

Today, as part of our continuing training, I walked a mere 18km, and Francine walked 16km. Full packs.

It was a good walk, but the aftermath has been less than pleasant. Our feet hurt, and we’re crabby. Some days are like that. Some days you forget to put down that stone you’re carrying, the one that’s weighing you down.

When asked why angels could fly, G.K. Chesterton replied, “because they take themselves so lightly.”

Perhaps for us to fly, we need to put down those stones we carry, the ones we keep collecting.

Next Saturday, I walk 20km. The Saturday after that, 25.

A few weeks later, I’ll be walking on the Camino. We should get to Cruz de Ferro sometime in the last week of April, at which point I will lay down my stone, as have countless pilgrims before me.

Lord, may this stone, a symbol of my efforts on the pilgrimage that I lay at the foot of the cross of the Saviour, one day weigh the balance in favour of my good deeds when the deeds of my life are judged. Let it be so.

(traditional pilgrim’s prayer at Cruz de Ferro)

Happy they who dwell in your house!

Continually they praise you.

Happy the men whose strength you are!

Their hearts are set upon the pilgrimage.

(from Psalm 84,

Optional Responsorial Psalm for today’s

Feast of the Holy Family of Jesus, Mary, and Joseph)

With just over three months to go until I leave for the Camino, my preparations are again revving up. Over the holidays (which I here loosely define as “between Thanksgiving and New Year), hiking has largely fallen by the wayside. Equipment purchasing has slowed. Other things have crowded my thoughts.

With today’s psalm, however, I’m reminded that, with God as my strength, the time has again come to set my heart upon the pilgrimage.

While my “Training Lent” program doesn’t go into high gear until the first week of February, we’ll be getting back to the weekly hiking right after the New Year.

My plan of slowly purchasing equipment has paid off, with only a few items remaining in my Amazon wishlist, most of them small incidentals. And maps. I’ll want the maps, I think.

In typical Thom overboard fashion, my packing list is actually a spreadsheet that includes weights in grams for all the various items. I’m still overweight, but I’m paring it down, even as I’m adding the last little bits of equipment.

The two heaviest items, my hiking shoes and my pack, are not likely to change, so I’m really nibbling around the edges.

Spanish language work is next up. I speak no word of Spanish that doesn’t involve food or greeting somebody. My foreign language skills in general are pretty poor.

I’ll be trying out Coffee Break Spanish for starters. We’ll see how that goes. Suggestions welcome!

Then there are the endless details, everything from getting my pilgrim’s passport stamped at my parish and the cathedral to trip insurance to, you know, actually purchasing the plane tickets. And depending on how I fly in, additional bus or train tickets as well. I’ve been waiting until after the Christmas holiday to get tickets.

I check the flights every day, and I’m astonished that the same flight will vary in cost by more than $500 from day to day. It’s crazy. I’ve got a target price (depending on whether I fly in to Pamplona or Biarritz), and I’m pouncing the instant I see it.

Just to be on the safe side, I’m also engaging my firm’s travel coordinator, to see if she can get me a deal.

Ultreya!